I sometimes run into the issue with turning the key to start the car, only for it to do nothing. Everything powers up, but it doesn't start up. I try all sorts of things like pushing in the brake(automatic rigs need to do this to start), turning the car back off and removing the key, then trying again, and double checking the car is in park.
I've scheduled an appt with Kia but I'd like to see if it's something stupid in case it doesn't rear its ugly head to the dealer and I waste my time. I've done web searches as well as Reddit but haven't found anything similar yet.
I've tried uploading the 15 second video on here to show what's happening, but the it's not found or maybe it's just too large.
That "no-start" condition you're describing - where everything lights up but the engine doesn't even try to crank—is a classic case of an intermittent electrical fault. It's frustrating because, as you said, it's often impossible to replicate at the dealership, and it doesn't leave behind a diagnostic trouble code (DTC).
The good news is that you're not alone, and there are a few common "stupid" things that cause this on Kia Sportage models. You're right to try and identify the cause before your appointment.
Here are the most likely culprits, starting with the simplest to check:
1. The Brake Pedal Switch
This is an incredibly common cause of intermittent no-starts on many modern vehicles, including Kias. The car's computer won't send a signal to the starter unless it sees that the brake pedal is depressed. If the switch is faulty or sticky, it might not register the brake pedal being pressed every time.
- What to check: The next time this happens, try pressing the brake pedal *very hard*, or pump it a few times before you turn the key. Sometimes the switch will be finicky and this extra pressure can make it work. A new brake switch is a relatively inexpensive part to replace.
2. The Park/Neutral Safety Switch
Similar to the brake switch, the car's computer needs to confirm that the transmission is in Park or Neutral before it will allow the engine to crank. If this switch is faulty, it may not register the correct gear position every time.
- What to check: The next time it happens, try wiggling the gear selector a bit while it's in Park. If that doesn't work, shift it into Neutral and try to start the car. If it starts in Neutral, this is a strong indicator that the park/neutral safety switch is the problem.
3. The Starter Motor or Starter Solenoid
While the starter itself might be fine, the solenoid that engages it or the motor's internal components can have a "dead spot." This means the electrical signal gets to the starter, but it fails to turn. Then, after you try again, the armature might have shifted just enough to a "good spot" to make contact and work.
- What to check: The next time the car fails to start, listen closely for a single, audible "click" from under the hood. This click is the starter solenoid engaging, but it's not able to turn the motor. If you hear this click, it's almost certainly the starter motor or solenoid.
4. The Starter Relay
This is a small, inexpensive relay in the fuse box that sends power to the starter. Like any relay, it can fail intermittently.
- What to check: The easiest way to test this is to find the starter relay in your fuse box (consult your owner's manual) and swap it with another identical relay from a non-critical system, like the horn or the rear defogger. If the car then starts every time, you've found your culprit.
Because this is a very common issue that's difficult to replicate, it's highly likely that your dealer will have encountered it before. If they can't make it happen, tell them about the troubleshooting you've done, especially the part about the brake pedal or wiggling the shifter. That can give them the clues they need to properly diagnose the issue.
